Engine Rebuild for Beginners, Part 1 | Extra Good
Duration: 18:34
Views: 88K
Submitted: 3 years ago
Description:
Never rebuilt an engine before? Walk through the process with Ethan and Kristin as they rebuild a Small Block Chevy 350 engine. Get the full time-lapse of the engine teardown process with lots of Extra Good engine building DIY beginner tips along the way during Part 1. For the SBC 350 rebuild, check out Part 2: https://youtu.be/7qv-wvr4QjU.
Looking for a specific part of an SBC 350 rebuild? Jump ahead...
0:00 Beginner introduction to engine teardown and rebuild
1:32 SBC 350 teardown timelapse breakdown
1:58 engine breakdown begins
3:16 how to remove pushrods when taking apart an engine
4:49 removing engine lifters and heads
6:37 taking apart the bottom end of the engine
8:30 how to remove pistons from block
12:28 how to remove engine crank (and timing chain)
13:57 removal and insertion of camshaft
14:42 engine teardown recap and reassembly description
16:24 why pushrods, lifters and pistons get wear patterns
Thanks for joining us for Extra Good engine day! Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below & subscribe to Driving Line to catch each episode of Extra Good when it's released.
https://www.youtube.com/drivingline?sub_confirmation=1
No special tools are needed to take apart an engine. We used basic hand tools as well as a couple of power tools (which makes it MUCH faster) and ARP Rod Bolt Extensions (like these from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-910-0005). If you don't want to invest in these "engine spikes," you can also use a short length of hose that fits snugly on the connecting rod bolts.
On tools, one suggestion for beginner engine builders looking to invest in their first engine stand: Pay the extra money and get the 2000 lb stand instead of the 1000 lb stand (at least in regards to Harbor Freight engine stands.) The 2000 lb stand has two legs to stabilize it on the ground, versus just one. It's worth the cash in order to not have to worry about it tipping over! Here's the one we used: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html
Also keep in mind that the engine being used for this video is already clean. So, gaskets may not be shown and gasket surfaces don't need to get scraped off and cleaned. Chance are 99.99% that whatever engine you've got sitting in front of you will be a MESS! Don't cut corners... clean your engine project well so it'll go back together nicely and works properly.
Follow along on more of our Extra Good car restoration adventures, as we're currently rebuilding an F100 pickup:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzmFpekl13YentDdOgY4Jbb6PpKzWCW_0
Follow Driving Line on Facebook: https://facebook.com/drivingline
Follow Driving Line on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/drivingline/
Follow Kristin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greasegirl/
Let us know what you'd love to see & learn about next, drop a comment!
Looking for a specific part of an SBC 350 rebuild? Jump ahead...
0:00 Beginner introduction to engine teardown and rebuild
1:32 SBC 350 teardown timelapse breakdown
1:58 engine breakdown begins
3:16 how to remove pushrods when taking apart an engine
4:49 removing engine lifters and heads
6:37 taking apart the bottom end of the engine
8:30 how to remove pistons from block
12:28 how to remove engine crank (and timing chain)
13:57 removal and insertion of camshaft
14:42 engine teardown recap and reassembly description
16:24 why pushrods, lifters and pistons get wear patterns
Thanks for joining us for Extra Good engine day! Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below & subscribe to Driving Line to catch each episode of Extra Good when it's released.
https://www.youtube.com/drivingline?sub_confirmation=1
No special tools are needed to take apart an engine. We used basic hand tools as well as a couple of power tools (which makes it MUCH faster) and ARP Rod Bolt Extensions (like these from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-910-0005). If you don't want to invest in these "engine spikes," you can also use a short length of hose that fits snugly on the connecting rod bolts.
On tools, one suggestion for beginner engine builders looking to invest in their first engine stand: Pay the extra money and get the 2000 lb stand instead of the 1000 lb stand (at least in regards to Harbor Freight engine stands.) The 2000 lb stand has two legs to stabilize it on the ground, versus just one. It's worth the cash in order to not have to worry about it tipping over! Here's the one we used: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html
Also keep in mind that the engine being used for this video is already clean. So, gaskets may not be shown and gasket surfaces don't need to get scraped off and cleaned. Chance are 99.99% that whatever engine you've got sitting in front of you will be a MESS! Don't cut corners... clean your engine project well so it'll go back together nicely and works properly.
Follow along on more of our Extra Good car restoration adventures, as we're currently rebuilding an F100 pickup:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzmFpekl13YentDdOgY4Jbb6PpKzWCW_0
Follow Driving Line on Facebook: https://facebook.com/drivingline
Follow Driving Line on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/drivingline/
Follow Kristin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greasegirl/
Let us know what you'd love to see & learn about next, drop a comment!
Sponsored by:
Driving Line
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